D5: Women boulder final : Klingler at the very end
With several tops in this bouldering circuit, the Swiss made the difference in the last problem, with suspense right up to the very end.
Boulder 1: a first section focused on sensation with a dyno and 2 physical moves. Quite a lot of success in the slab: Petra Klingler (SUI), Megan Mascarenas (USA) and Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) need one attempt to top it. Miho Nonaka (JPN) manages to pass it in 3 attempts, as does Anna Stöhr (AUT) just before the time limit.
Boulder 2: The toughest problem – physically speaking – of the circuit. It starts in the overhang with a large volume to bypass. The first climber to try it out, the Russian Krasovskaia will not make it. Megan Mascarenas, Petra Klingler and Anna Stöhr manage to find their way to the bonus hold but will fail to grab the top volume. The two Japanese climbers seem to be the only one who can overcome it. The first section is easily passed for both of them but this tricky top hold is something else. Despite good runs from them, this problem remains unsolved.
Boulder 3: moving and reading well! This problem was tough to pass…but also to read. Those who understand the method make it to the top quite easily. Megan Mascarenas, Petra Klingler and Akiyo Noguchi need one attempt, Anna Stöhr needs one more due to a slip. Miho Nonaka needs two attempts as well despite not having completely understood the method. Her physical strength helps her to top it.
Boulder 4: the podium is still unknown. Megan Mascarenas, Petra Klingler and Akiyo Noguchi passed 2 problems in 2 attempts. Miho Nonaka and Anna Stöhr are still in the race with 5 attempts to top 2 problems. Nothing is settled yet.
Megan Mascarenas will not do better than grabing the bonus hold. It’s now the turn of the strong Swiss to try this traverse using compression before the final dyno. Her strength will do the job. Petra Klingler needs 2 attempts to reach the top. With 3 problems solved, she bursts into tears of joy. She knows she will get - at least - silver.
Anna Stöhr fails to top it. It takes time for Miho Nonaka to get the problem, but she manages to pass it in 4 attempts. She is on the podium, with the silver medal. Akiyo Noguchi is the only one left who can still get the gold. But the 2015 Bouldering World Cup winner doesn’t find the way. She will get the bronze. Petra Klingler becomes the 2016 bouldering World Champion. She comes back to the stage, still in tears, to celebrate her title with the AccorHotels Arena crowd.